Imja Tse (Island Peak) - 6169m.
Island Peak Description:
Imja Tse (Island peak), 6169m. is one of the most popular
lesser peaks and scaling the mountain you will need some
This trip is the same as the ‘Everest’
treks till your entrance to the Chukkung valley. Either
you can take air service from Katmandu to Lukla or drive
to Jiri 184 km. Eastward of Katmandu and commence trek to
Lukla and then continue up past Namche Bazaar, Tengboche,
Dingboche, Imaja Glacier to the Base camp of Imja Tse or
Island peak. Three days are set aside for the ascent of
Imja Tse and follow the same route back to Katmandu as in
the ‘Everest’ trek. If you take one-way flight
to Lukla, the whole trip will cover within 23 days and 16
days is enough if both way flights are taken.
This trip offers you not only enchanting
views of Mt, Everest (8848m.) Lhotse (8516m) Amadablam (6856m.)
and numerous other peaks; draws your attention towards monasteries
and traditional Sherpa villages. Such a massive glance of
the Himalayan peaks can create in you a pleasant wave of
20239 feet / 6069 meters
Everest region of Nepal
Best for the Climbing
September, October, November
Nearest Major Airport
(minor: Lukla or Phaplu)
Easiest Summit Route
Basic Snow / Ice Climb
Lodge / Camping
Fixed / Customized
20 + 4 = 24 days
Using by Round Trip flight to &
from Lukla (20 Days):
Day 01: Kathmandu-Lukla (2860m)
fly in the morning for 45 minutes then commence & trek
to Phakding (2600m) – 4 hours
After a very early start and an early take off from Kathmandu
Domestic Airport, a 45-minute flight is all it takes to
propel into the Everest region of Nepal. The landings at
Lukla (2800m) is spectacular and on arrival you will be
greeted by trekking crew who organize the luggage and hustle
you off for tea. After a leisurely lunch you will start
the trek in earnest, setting off for a gentle walk to Phakding
(2800m), a further 3 hours to the north. The trail leads
through Lukla, past hotels, shops and airline offices to
the edge of the Lukla plateau where the trail drops to meet
the intersection of the Jiri trail at Chablung. From here
the trail follows the Dudh Kosi north through the village
of Ghat and then finally to Phakding where you should spend
Day 02: Phakding - Naamche Bazar
(3446m) - 6½ hours
From Phakding the trail continues north up the Dudh Kosi
Valley, staying 100m above the river on it's West Bank.
The trail leads to Jorsale (2810m) where you enter the Sagarmatha
(Everest) National Park. From here you will continue on
an ever-steeping trail to Namche Bazaar (3446m), known simply
as Namche. En route you have cross the spectacular suspension
bridge high above the confluence of the Bhote Kosi and the
Dudh Kosi, and shortly after glimpse first view of Everest,
way off to the northeast. The trail to Namche is steep and
long, but eventually you will reach the remarkable Sherpa
capital perched high on the hillside and dominated to the
east by the immense bulk of Kwangde (6187m).
Day 03: Namche Bazar, on day rest
Acclimatization is important before trekking higher, and
this is a scheduled stop, which will allow you to gradually
become used to the effects of altitude - the lower pressure
and the thinner air. You can spend the day by taking a side
trip to Thami or Khumjung, by visiting the National Park
Visitor Center on the hill above Namche or by simply resting
and browsing in the shops in the town. Namche is a fascinating
place simply to 'hang out' and take in the culture of the
mountains, from the trading of visiting Tibetans to the
stories of departing mountaineers.
Day 04: Namche Bazar – Tengboche
(3867m) - 6½ hours
From Namche you have to trek northeast on a direct line
to Everest, starting up the hill to the Visitor Center and
continuing on a reasonably flat easy trail high above the
Dudh Kosi. Ahead of you can see one of the most beautiful
mountains in the Khumbu - Ama Dablam (6856m), as well as
Everest still far off in the distance. At Sanasa you should
branch off the trail and head up the hill to the small settlement
of Phunki where you will stop for lunch. From here it is
a steady descent to the Tengboche. This is a beautiful settlement
where you can see the famous Tibetan Monastery. This is
the place where you have to spend overnight.
Day 05: Tengboche –
Dingboche (4343m) – 6 hours
Day 06: Dingboche-Lobuche (4930m) - 5½
Day 07: Lobuche-Gorakshep (3200m) –
Day 08: Gorakhshep-Kalapattar (5545m) or
Everest Base camp - Lobuche, 6 hours
Day 09-10: Lobuche – Chhukung valley
Day 11: Chhukung (acclimatization/rest
Day 12: Chhukung - Island Peak base camp
From Chhukung you have to continue in a
general easterly direction to the site of your base camp.
The trail follows the moraine of the Lhotse glacier to the
snout of the Imja glacier where it branches to the east
and skirts around the base of Island Peak. You have to make
your main camp at a spot known as Pareshaya Gyab at 5087m.
Day 13: Island Peak base camp-high
After taking lunch and resting you will continue up to the
high camp, a further hour or so up the mountain. The trail
is well defined until you reach the area of the high camp
at approx. 5500m.
Day 14: High Camp-summit –
and decent Chhukung valley
You have to set off early for the summit at about 3.00 am,
and scramble up in the dark to the snow-covered glacier
above. From here you have to take care your way up the glacier
until you should reach a broad snow basin, which leads up
to the final section of the climb.
Ahead of you now is the main summit ridge
and climb a steep snow and ice slope, using fixed ropes,
for approx. 100m to access the ridge. The ridge is a classic
and leads quickly to the east up to the main summit at 6189m.
From the summit there are fantastic across
to Lhotse to the north, the Amphu Labsta and Mera Peak to
the south, and Ama Dablam to the west. After taking in the
views you can descend by the same route, abseiling from
the ridge, and making your way back carefully to Base Camp.
You have to retrace your steps back down
to the Imja valley, firstly to Chhukung where you have to
stop for overnight stay
Day 15- 19: Decent from
Chhukung valley - Lukla
Day 20: Lukla (fly out)-Katmandu
Note: You can add some
more days as per your necessity.
Climbing Royalty: US $
350 up to (4persons) US $ 50 each additional member
Climbing Guide’s fee: US $ 300
Insurance: US $ 100
Garbage disposal charge: US $ 250
Air fare: US $ 208 round trip flight Air
fare for Guide will be divided by the number of Person
Cost of the trip: per person
(Effective From August 6, 1981)
1. In exercise of the powers conferred
by His Majesty’s Government, Nepal Mountaineering
Association has made the following rules to be observed
for the climbing of the peaks of Nepal Himalaya Appendix
2. These rules will come into force at
3 Definition: - Where applicable definitions
for these rules will be the same as those for His Majesty’s
Government Mountaineering Expedition Regulations 1979 and
its first Amendment 1984.
4. Permission :-
(i) Any person or Mountaineering team desirous
of climbing the peak listed in Appendix "1" must
receive permission from Nepal Mountaineering Association.
Application to climb the peak must be made in the form as
prescribed in Appendix "2"
(ii) Permission to climb the peaks will
be granted for a period of one month only.
(iii) Permission may be extended, if necessary,
for another period of two weeks.
(iv) The period of permission granted relates
to time spent for climbing above the base camp. The trek
to and from the base camp is not included.
(v) Application for climbing permit may
be made at any time by the concerned Mountaineering team.
Permit will be granted on a first come first serve basis.
(vi) Each climbing party will be given
a permit as prescribed. The right to give permission to
another party for climbing the same peak during the same
period is reserved by Nepal Mountaineering Association.
(vii) Nepal Mountaineering Association
will recommend to Immigration Office of His Majesty’s
Government for obtaining trekking permit of the area to
the team Members.
5. Payment of Fee : (Effective from January
A climbing fee for 18 NMA Peaks mentioned
in Appendix "1" will be charged as follows:
Group Size Rate US$ Additional P/P US$
1-4 Persons 350.00 Only
5-8 Persons 350.00 Plus 40.00 (Per Person)
9-12 Persons 510.00 Plus 25.00 (Per Person)
The permit is valid for the period of one
month only. The maximum number of person in a group will
be 12 pax.
* * For extending the permission, an additional
25% charge of the total amount of the initial fee will be
made for each extra week.
* * The leader or climbing member of the
team must collect the permit in person from Nepal Mountaineering
6. Refund :- In the event of cancellation
of the permission by NMA or the failure of the expedition
to materialize due to some others reason, the fees already
paid will not be refunded.
7. Every individual or party granted a
climbing permit should be accompanied by a Sirdar/Guide,
who must be registered with NMA.
Functions and Duties of the Sirdar/Guide
a) To Assist the climbing party with recruitment
of porters and other staff, control of porters, local purchase
of food, etc. and to solve any problem that may arise to
the best of his ability.
b) To report to Nepal Mountaineering Association
in case the party spends more than the prescribed time limit
in the Mountain.
c) To ensure that the climbers comply with
the terms of their permit.
d) To ensure that the climbers, (trekkers)
follow the specified route.
e) To ensure proper disposal of waste materials.
f) To report to NMA any infringement of
the climbing rules.
g) To report any serious incidents to the
nearest police post. The Sirdar/Guide shall be employed
from the day the climbing party begins the trek until the
trek is finished.
The Sirdar/Guide will be provided with
the following facilities
I) Minimum daily allowance to be paid as
per the rules of His Majesty’s Government, Ministry
of Tourism, and Civil Aviation.
2) Food and tent accommodation.
3) Climbing equipment and necessary clothing
if required to go above base camp.
8. Insurance :- All employees doing above
base camp must be insured for personal accident to the value
of Rs. 200,000/-
9. Nomination of Representative in Kathmandu
:- Each party granted climbing permit will nominate representative
in Kathmandu to act as liaison between NMA and the climbing
party. The representative should be an organization registered
with NMA. The nominated representative will be responsible
for making necessary arrangements for the climbing party
in case of accidents or any other unforeseen circumstances.
10. Submission of report : - On the conclusion
of the climb and on return to Kathmandu the party will submit
a report to NMA
11. Power to cancel the permit :- NMA may
cancel or withdraw the climbing permit any time with or
without showing any particular reason.
12. Non-compliance of the regulation: -
Where any trekking party acts in contravention to the climbing
permit or indulges in acts of unsocial or outrageous behavior
contrary to the customs and culture of the people of Nepal,
NMA may recommend to the HMG to take necessary measures
in accordance with the article 37 of Mountaineering Regulation
13. Protection of Environments: - Base
camp and other camps will be left perfectly clean at the
conclusion of the climb. No foreign materials such as fix
ropeas, pitions, etc. shall be left on the mountain. All
rubbish and waste material must be burnt or otherwise disposed
14. Revision of the Regulation: - Any article
of this regulation may be revised or amended by NMA with
prior permission of HMG/Nepal.
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