Mardi Himal 18,330
feet / 5,587meters
A short Himalayan excursion to an excellent peak in the
Annapurna region of Nepal
Mardi Himal is considered to be an ideal introduction
to mountaineering in the high Himalaya, particularly if
you have limited time available. No previous experience
of high altitudes is necessary, as every precaution will
be taken to ensure gradual and thorough acclimatization
during the trek to the mountain.
Although Mardi Himal is the shortest and
probably the easiest of our expeditions to Nepal, to maximize
both your enjoyment and your chances of success, you need.
A major benefit of Mardi Himal is the ability to climb it
in a round trip of a little over 2 weeks. It therefore makes
a visit to the Himalaya a real possibility for those who
hither to have not been able to find the time to join a longer
This peak is located in the east of the
Modi Khola, across the valley from Hiunchuli. It is separated
from Machhapuchhre ridge by a col. and usual route of ascent
reaches this col (about 5,200m. /17,060 ft.) and reaches
the summit via a route on its east flank. Although the mountain
rises above the entrance to the Annapurna sanctuary it is
not often visited. The trek reaches and then follows the
Mardi Khola for 2 days before turning and climbing the ridge
line for 3 more days before reaching base camp around 4,100
m. /13,451 ft.
The climb has problems with route finding
and effort but little technical difficulty: the couloirs
leading to the col on the East Face can present an avalanche
danger with fresh snow. The climb begins by heading steeply
towards the col on the connecting ridge between Mardi Himal
and Machhapuchhre. High camp is usually placed just below
the final steep (45 degrees) couloirs leading to the col
(about 4,650 m. /15,256 ft.) From high camp, climb to the
col and turn west, ascending steep snow slopes to the summit.
Descend the same route.
Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu and transfer to the hotel and welcome dinner in the evening with typical Nepalese food.
Day 02: Sightseeing to the highlighted areas of capital city Kathmandu and prepare the official documents such as climbing permit.
Day 03: Drive to Pokhra, O/N in Hotel.
Day 4: Trek
We make an early start for the 6-hour drive to Pokhara,
Nepal's second largest town some 198 km to the west. Stopping
at the village of Hyenja, we then set off on foot, along
the bank of the Mardi Khola which is soon crossed via a
rope bridge. We then follow the Seti Kola, through farmed
terraces to the village of Gyachok, where we camp for the
night. Good views of Machhapuchhre and Mardi Himal.
Day 5: Trek to Sano Khoban (1,600m).
After breakfast we walk through the village with its beautifully
built houses and dry stonewalls, and friendly villagers.
As we climb higher through the paddy field terraces, the
much busier villages on the opposite side of the valley
become visible. A good track contours along the hillside
to Dhiprang and later we reach a super lunch spot by the
river. We then pass two more villages, Mirsa and Kaduwa,
which are the last settlements we will see until our return
trek. The day finishes with a steep climb to the pastureland
of Sano Khoban, where we camp.
Day 6: Trek to Pipa (3,150m).
The trail continues steeply, now through forest. The only
clearing in the forest is about 1 ½ hours from Sano
Khoban, so we may well stop for an early lunch. Then it
is a long up-hill struggle through dense forest until we
reach 2,900m, where we break out into the open air. A very
steep ridge then leads to the small lake at Pipa.
Day 7: Acclimatization day.
Yesterday was a long day and we ascended 1,500m, so today
is a welcome rest day, to help us acclimatize to the altitude.
There is a stream suitable for washing about 20 minutes
from the campsite.
Day 8: Trek to Thulo Kharka (4,120m).
We continue up the ridgeline, with fantastic views stretching
from the Manaslu group in the east, across the Annapurna
to Dhaulagiri in the far west. Eventually we arrive at the
pleasant grazing area of Thulo Kharka.
Day 9: Trek to Base Camp (4,100m).
This is a short day and the whole route to base camp is
visible from Thulo Kharka. It takes about 2 hours to reach
it, where it sits in the obvious valley, which descends
between the south and southeast ridges of Mardi Himal.
Day 10: Acclimatization day.
Another important acclimatization day. It is best to rest
during this period rather than try and do too much - there
will be plenty of opportunity for exertion later!
Day 11: Climb to High Camp (4,650m).
It takes about 2 hours to reach the high camp, our take-off
point for the summit. First we climb straight up for 200m
then traverse around the south-east ridge. A steady climb
on rocks and perhaps some snow then leads to the camp site.
This is in a good sheltered location but water is scarce
and may involve melting snow. Make sure your water bottles
are full at the beginning of the day!
Day 12: Climb Mardi Himal (5,555m).
With 900m of ascent before us, we need to make a very early
start to ensure success. The first part of the climb is
the couloir leading to the East Col (5,400m), between Mardi
Himal and Machhapuchare. The base of the couloir is at 4,950m,
where we will most likely need to put on crampons. The couloir
is a very long snow climb, not steep, but it is sustained
and tiring, and it will take about 4 hours to reach the
col. On the col it will probably be quite windy (unless
we are very lucky), but it is only an hour or so to the
top, up a pleasant snow ridge. Once on the summit, we can
rest and enjoy being on a Nepalese summit in the midst of
the Himalaya. After taking photos and perhaps having a bite
to eat, we descend to the high camp and then continue to
base camp for a good meal.
Day 13: Trek to Korchon (3,680m).
We take a different route back to Pokhara which stays high
up on ridges to allow us to enjoy the views for longer.
From base camp we traverse the south ridge to reach a col
at 4,280m. We then stay up on the ridge, following it with
wonderful views, to Korchon where we camp.
Day 14: Trek to Riban (1,780m).
The ridge line continues to Odane Hill. The descent is steep
and awkward, being on tussock grass with hidden holes, so
care is needed. However, the trail is marked and eventually
the grass gives way to forest. Soon after we reach the col
below Odane Hill, which is a good view point. Following
the ridge line south, we emerge out of the forest above
Riban. This is our last evening on trek so it is usual to
sample the local brew and have a sing-song with the Sherpas
- they are always happiest when the hard work is over!
Day 15: Trek to Hyenja, drive to
The final part of the trek is a lovely walk through Riban
and on to Lachock. We cross the Mardi Khola and Mardi Pul
which is an excellent lunch spot. Then it's a short walk
to Hyenja where we are met by our bus whisks us to the luxury
of the Fish Tail Lodge, on of Nepal's most celebrated hotels.
It's buildings sprawl across a small island in Pewa Tal,
the picturesque lake beside Pokhara. From here we can look
back towards Machhapuchare and Mardi Himal, while sitting
on the terrace drinking beer!
Day 16: Return flight to Kathmandu.
Today we fly back from Pokhara to Kathmandu and the Hotel,
where we can celebrate the success of our expedition in
Day 17: Your Destination
Box about Mardi Himal 18,330 feet / 5,587meters
feet / 5,587meters
region of Nepal
for the Climbing
May, September, October, November
cost except your Package cost
Climbing Guide’s fee:
in US$ Additional
P/P in US$
1 – 4 persons
5 – 8 persons
40.00 per person
9 – 12 persons
25.00 per person
US $ 300.00 will be divided for
US $ 81.00 for one way flight
US $ 1200.00 per hour if necessary
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