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CLIMBING IN NEPAL

 » Climbing gears
 » Different Peaks
 » Free Royal Mountain
 » Climbing Rules
 » World's Highest Peak
 » Mera Peak
 » Pisang Peak
 » Kanchenjunga Peak
 » Island Peak
 » Chulu West Peak
 » Chulu East Peak
 » Cho Oyu Peak
 » Mardi Himal
 » Larke Peak
 » Hiunchuli Peak
 » Kwangde Peak
 » Kusum Kanguru
 » Pokhalde Peak
 » Tukuche Himal
 » Kongma Tse (Mehra Peak)
 » Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak)
 » Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak)
 » Pachhermo Peak
 » Ramdung-Go Peak
 » Naya Kanga Peak
 » Yala Peak
 » Langsisa-Ri Peak
 » Macchermo Peak
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Climbing in different peaks of Nepal.

Different mountains have various levels of difficulty. All of our climbs follow the standard and easiest route on every mountain. This gives us a better chance to reach the top. Our guides always pick safe routes and know the signs of danger. We give all our clients time to acclimate and if the altitude begins to effect anyone we know how to react. Good physical shape is needed for these climbs but no climbing experience is needed. We urge all clients to follow an exercise routine before coming to Nepal.

(I) Trekking peaks: smaller and easier 
(II) Climbing peaks: higher and challenging including Everest
(I) Trekking peaks: smaller and easier, here are the most popular climbs we offer: 

Mera Peak-6,476 m ( 21,247 ft): Mera Peak is one of the highest trekking peaks in Nepal. It is also an easier climb than most others. It is located south of Everest in the Hinku valley. We follow the standard route up the North Face . The climb itself takes 3 – 4 days including 2 nights at base camp depending on weather. Though the climb is not technically difficult good physical condition is a must. It takes 6 days to trek to base camp from Lukla and 6 days to trek back. Give yourself at least three weeks in Nepal if you want to climb Mera Peak. 

Island Peak-6,189 m (20,305 ft): The name Island peak comes from the fact that the peak looks like a island surrounded by ice. We climb Island peak via the South-East flank on a pretty straight forward climb. There are amazing views of Everest as well as the entire Khumbu region. This climb is reached with the Everest base camp trek and takes around 6-7 days to get to base camp from Lukla. The climb requires good physical condition. 

Tharpu Chuli- 5,500 m (18, 045 m): This mountain is often called Tent Peak due to it’s tent like shape. This beautiful mountain is situated in the middle of the Annapurna Sanctuary. We follow the North-West ridge to a high camp and the next day follow the same ridge to the top. The trek to base camp from Pokhara takes an average of at least 5 days. So the entire trip can take 2 to 3 weeks. 

There are many other trekking peaks that can be climbed such as Mardi Himal, the Chulus, Hiunchuli, and Ganesh Himal. We can guide any of the trekking peaks you wish. 

Clothing and Equipment: Having the proper clothing and equipment is a must for all of our climbing trips. Some gear is available for rent in Kathmandu such as double boots, crampons, and ice axes. But sizes and availability of this gear varies so it could be in your best interest to get all the gear before you come. We will provide you an equipment list once you have decided on what trip you would like.

Our guides are experienced mountain climbers who have explored many of the peaks in Nepal. They will teach you the fundamentals of mountaineering and safe glacier travel. They are trained in 1st aid and know how to spot altitude sickness. They are also friendly and eager to show you their culture. 

If you are a professional climber who needs assistance for a climb please contact us. We can make sure everything runs smoothly and organized. We can also deal with the often complicated permit process. So please let us handle your next climbing expedition. 

Trekking Peaks
We can organize expeditions on any of the summits listed here-after, providing mountain guides and other staff, who have been there and know the routes; according to the destination of your choice, we'll send you detailed route information, as well as recommendations on technical equipment and the capacities required.

The list of "Trekking Peaks" which opened for trekking groups with permission from Nepal Mountaineering Association:

18 Peaks are opened for trekking groups with permission from Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA)

GROUP "A" NMA EXPEDITION PEAKS

S.N NAME OF MOUNTAIN HEIGHT (m) HIMALAYAN RANGE DISTRICT CARAVAN ROUTES
01 Mt. Cholatse                   6440 Mahalangur Solukhumbu Lukla-Namche-Pheriche-BC
02 Mt. Machermo 6237 Mahalangur Solukhumbu Lukla-Namche-Gokyo-BC
03 Mt. Kyazo Ri  6186 Mahalangur Solukhumbu Lukla-Namche-Gokya-Bc
04 Mt. Nirekha 6186 Mahalangur Solukhumbu Lukla-Namche-gokyo-BC
05 Mt. Langsisa Ri 6427 Jugal Rasuwa Dhunche-Lantang-Langshis-Ri - BC
06 Mt. Ombigaichen 6340 Mahalangur Solukhumbu Lukla-Namche-Gokyo-BC
07 Mt. Bokta 6143 Gaurishankar Dolakha Charikot-Simigaon-beding-BC
08 Mt. Chekijo 6257 Gaurishankar Dolakha Charikot-Simigaon-Beding-BC
09 Mt. Phari Lapcha 6017 Mahalangur Solukhumbu Lukla-Namche-Machermo-BC
10 Mt. Lobuje West 6145 Mahalangur Solukhumbu Lukla-Namche-Lobuche BC
11 Mt. Larkya Peak 6249 Manaslu Gorkha Gorkha-Samagoun-Larkya Bc
12 Mt. ABI 6097 Mahalangur Solukhumbu Lukla-Merala-BC
13 Mt. Yubra Himal 6035 Langtang Himal Rasuwa Dhunche-Legberi BC
14 Mt. Yala 5732 Langtang Himal Rasuwa Ktm-Dhunche-Langtang-Bc
15 Mt. Chhukung Ri 5550 Mahalangur Solukhumbu Ktm-Lukla-Namche-BC

FEE STRUCTURE FOR GROUP "A" NMA PEAKS

GROUP SIZE  RATE ADDITIONAL P/P USD$
1-7 Pax USD $ 500.00 USD $ 0.00
7-12 Pax USD $ 500.00 USD $ 100.00

GROUP "B" NMA CLIMBING PEAKS

S.N NAME OF MOUNTAIN HEIGHT (m) HIMALAYAN RANGE REGION CARAVAN ROUTES
01 Shigu Chuli (Fluted peak) 6501 Annapurna Himal Gandaki Ktm-Pokhara-Tilkedhunga-Ghorepani-Tadapani-BC
02 Mera Peak 6654 Khumbu Himal Sagarmatha Ktm-Lukla-Kothe-Thangna-Khare-BC
03 Kusum Kangru Peak 6367 Khumbu Himal Sagarmatha Ktm-Lukla-Namche-Thame-Khumjung-B.C.
04 Kwandge Peak 6011 Khumbu Himal Sagarmatha Ktm-Lukla-Merala-Randimng-Hunde-B.C.
05 Chulu West Peak 6419 Manang Gandaki Ktm-Besisahar-Ngadi-Jagat-Dharapani-BC
06 Imja-Tse (Island Peak) 6160 Khumbu Himal Sagarmatha Ktm-Lukla-Namche-Tengboche-Pangpoche-Dingboche-Chhukang-B.C.
07 Pharchamo Peak 6187 Rolwaling Himal Janakpur Ktm-Dolkha-siguti-jagat-simigaon-Chagebukharka-Beding-Na-B.C.
08 Lobuche Peak 6119 Khumbu Himal Sagarmatha Ktm-Lukla-Namche-Thame-Gokyo-Dzonghla-B.C
09 Ramdung Peak 5925 Rolwaling Himal Janakpur Ktm-dolkha-Siguti-Beding-Na-Kabung-Kydug-Kongma-Drolmaban- Tashi Lapcha-B.C.
10 Pisang Peak 6091 Manang Gandaki Ktm-Beshisahar-Jagat-Chame- Pisang B.C.
11 Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) 5663 Annapurna Himal Gandaki Ktm-Pokhara-Dhampus-Langdrung- Ghandrung-Chomorong-B.C.
12 Khongma-Tse (Mehara Peak) 5849 Khumbu Himal Sagarmatha Ktm-Lukla-Namche-Dole-Mechermo-Gokyo-Dughala-B.C.
13 Ganja-la Chuli Peak (Naya Kanga) 5844 Langtang Himal Bagmati Ktm-Dhunche-Sysbru Goan- Lama hotel-Kyanjin Gomba-Ganjala B.C.
14 Pokhalde Peak 5806 Khumbu Himal Sagarmatha Ktm-Lukla-Namche-Dole-Gokyo-Cholapass-B.C.
15 Mardi Himal 5587 Annapurna Himal Gandaki Ktm-Pokhara-Hyangia-Dhiprang- Kharka-Mardi Basi Camp
16 Paldor Peak 5896 Langtang Himal Bagmati Ktm-Dhading-Ankhu khola-Rigaon-Jaralang-Sertung-Kharka-Somdang-BC
17 Hiunchuli Peal 6441 Annapurna Gandaki Ktm-Pokhara-Chomrong-Bamboo-BC
18 Chulu East Peak 6584 Damodar Gandaki Ktm-Beisahar-Ngadi-Jagat-Dharapani-BC

FEE STRUCTURE FOR GROUP "B" NMA PEAKS

GROUP SIZE  RATE ADDITIONAL P/P USD$ TOTAL
1-4 Pax  USD $ 350.00 USD $ 0.00 USD $ 350.00
4+1 Pax = 5 USD $ 350.00 USD $ 40.00 USD $ 390.00
4+2 Pax = 6 USD $ 350.00 USD $ 80.00 USD $ 430.00
4+3 Pax = 7 USD $ 350.00 USD $ 120.00 USD $ 470.00
4+4 Pax = 8 USD $ 350.00 USD $ 160.00 USD $ 510.00
8+1 Pax = 9 USD $ 510.00 USD $ 25.00 USD $ 535.00
8+2 Pax = 10 USD $ 510.00  USD $ 50.00 USD $ 560.00
8+3 Pax = 11  USD $ 510.00 USD $ 75.00 USD $ 585.00
8+4 Pax = 12 USD $ 510.00 USD $ 100.00 USD $ 610.00

Note: Maximum number of members in team is 12.

Garbage deposit for all 33 NMA Peaks
An amount of USD $ 250.00 or equivalent to Nepalese Currency should be deposited to NMA as garbage deposit to get permit to all 33 NMA peaks. The refund shall be made as per the provisions made by NMA.

(II) Climbing peaks: higher and challenging including Everest
Climbing in the Nepal Himalaya:
Expeditions to any of the highest mountains of Nepal, including all those ranging in between 7,000 and 8,000m. requires long-term planning and through organization. Therefore, we do not wish to overload this site with an itinerary of all the mountains & particular information; on request and considering how often change in the regulation arise, we'll supply you with all the latest route information and planning requirements.

However we have enclosed some of the pretty famous on charts:

Over 8,000 m. Mountains for expedition.

Name of the peak

Altitude-mt

Location

Administrative Zone

Mt. Everest

8,848

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

Kanchenjunga

8,586

Kanchenjunga

Mechi

Lhotse

8,516

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

Ylaung Khang

8,505

Kanchenjunga

Mechi

Makalu

8,463

Mahalangur

Koshi

Lhotse Shar

8,400

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

Cho Oyu

8,201

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

Dhaulagiri I

8,167

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

Manaslu

8,163

Mansiri

Gandaki

Annapurna I

8,091

Gandaki

Gandaki

Between 7,000 m. to 8,000 m. Mountain to climb.

Peaks

Heights -M

Location

Administrative Zone

Gyachung Khang

7,952

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

Annapurna II

7,937

Gandaki

Gandaki

Kangbachen

7,903

Kanchenjunga/Mechi

Mechi

Himalchuli East

7,893

Mansiri/Gorkha

Gandaki

Peak 29 Dakura

7,871

Mansiri

Gandaki

Nuptse

7,885

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

Dhaulagiri II

7,751

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

Ngojumba Kang

7,743

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

Dhaulagiri III

7,715

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

Kumbhakarna

7,710

Kanchenjunga

Mechi

Makalu II

7,668

Mahalangur

Koshi

Dhaulagiri IV

7,661

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

Varaha Shikhar

7,647

Annapurna

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri V

7,618

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

Shantishikhar

7,591

Mahalangur

Sagarmatha

Annapurna III

7,556

Annapurna

Gandaki

Himalchuli West

7,540

Mansiri

Gandaki

Annapurna VI

7,520

Annapurna

Gandaki

Khang Sar Kang

7,485

Annapurna

Gandaki

Jongsang Peak

7,483

Janak

Mechi

Shartse

7,459

Khumbu

Sagarmatha

Gangapuran

7,455

Annapurna

Gandaki

Gaesh I( Yangrima)

7,429

Dhading

Bagmati

Himalchuli North

7,371

Mansiri

Gandaki

Churen

7,371

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

Kirat Chuli

7,365

Kanchenjunga

Mechi

Chamlang

7,319

Mahalangur

Sagarmatha

Dhaulagiri VI

7,268

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

Putha Himchuli

7,246

Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri

Langtang Lirung 

7,234

Langtang

Bagmati

Rules of climbing:

A. Asking for climbing permission: The following documents have to be sent to the Ministry of ourism, Mountaineering Division, Katmandu, Nepal.

  • Completed Application
  • Endorsement of the National Alpine Club.(if there is no Alpine Club, endorsement of the  Government of your side)
  • Short biography of all members of the expedition (with photograph)
  • Map and/ or photograph of the mountain including climbing route.
  • Approach route map.

Since climbing permission is granted on 'first come first serve' basis, it is therefore necessary to enlist the expedition's name for the particular mountain for the particular season of the year. The listing is made when the completed application form with all documents are received by the Ministry of Tourism. Incase all documents mentioned above cannot be submitted at a time, booking is possible with only the completed application by the expedition leader.
No fee is required to enlist the expedition's name.
 
B. Expedition with Eco Trek: Eco Trek or Eco Trekking & Expedition Pvt. Ltd. is a respected and Government registered trekking company in Nepal. Eco Trek can do all the necessary work for the climbing permission as your local expedition operator or local contactor as per mountaineering Expedition Regulations.

C. Climbing Permit fee (royalty): The leader of the expedition team or its agent is required to compulsorily pay the full amount of climbing permit fee (Royalty) within TWO MONTHS of the date of permission. Incase of Failure of the payment of royalty within two months such permission may be CANCELLED. The payment can be sent to Eco Trek’s bank account by any means of money transfer.

D. Preparation In Nepal for Expedition:
Import of foods and equipment:- Invoices and airway bill or bill of lading (four copies each) have to be submitted to the Ministry of Tourism for import license and customs clearance for the import of expedition foods and equipment to Nepal. CIF Katmandu value is to be clearly mentioned in the invoice.

Communication Equipment:- As Walkie-talkies, Transceiver (Wireless) sets and other communication equipment are controlled articles in Nepal. Please declare these articles in the customs office (at entry point) that you wish to bring into Nepal for use during climbing period.

Such equipments have to be collected from the customs office by receiving permission letter from the Ministry of communication.

For the clearance of the equipment completed application form and invoice with catalogue or specifications (four copies each) should be submitted to the Ministry of Tourism (Eco Trek ) which are latter to be sent to other concerned government offices.

E. Filming or Documentary: Permission is required for filming or documentary. The Ministry of Communication must be contacted any time for queries about filming in Nepal. Please let us know we will take care of every thing here in Nepal.


 

P.O. Box: 6438 , Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal
Tel: 4424112 | Fax: 00977-1- 4420490
Email: info@ecotrek.com.np
Web: http://www.ecotrek.com.np, http://www.kailashtour.com
Mobile No: 00977 - 98510 26595/98510 41622/98510 - 40074